Saturday, April 4, 2015

The Beach Boys

 

 

 

 

On the trail of The Beach Boys

  • Songs of beaches, boards and bikinis paint picture of sun-kissed paradise
  • Steve Turner travelled to see the people and places that inspired the band
  • Trip started Hawthorne where the three Wilson brothers were raised
  • Other than Dennis Wilson, The Beach Boys were famously non-surfers

Just as I can't travel to Liverpool without thinking of The Beatles, so I can't travel to Los Angeles without thinking of The Beach Boys. 

Their songs of beaches, baggies, boards and bikinis painted a picture of a sun-kissed paradise, and their voices sounded as bright and as laid-back as California itself.

This time I was travelling specifically to discover the people and places that inspired the band. 

Their songs sounded as bright as a sun-kissed paradise, their voices sounded as laid-back as California itself

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Their songs sounded as bright as a sun-kissed paradise, their voices sounded as laid-back as California itself

I started in Hawthorne where the three Wilson brothers - Brian, Carl and Dennis - were raised, and joined up with guitarist Al Jardine and vocalist Mike Love to form a group.

The Wilson family home on 119th Street, where the boys taped their first single Surfin' in 1961, was demolished to make way for Interstate 105.

The rest of the street remains though, its neat lawns, porches and fluttering flags reminders of the group's clean-cut All-American origins.

A redbrick memorial now stands at the site of the Wilson house, with a bas-relief frieze showing the group carrying a surfboard and a plaque noting that the music conceived here 'broadcast to the world an image of LA as a place of sun, surf and romance'. 

Hawthorne is indeed a place of sun (263 days a year) but no surf and little romance. 

It's a charmless city that expanded on the back of the post-war aviation industry (Los Angeles International is only five miles away).

I could see why the teenagers of the 1950s would get 'bugged' driving 'up and down the same old strip'. Hawthorne Boulevard, with its low-rise jewellery shops and furniture stores, is no place for the young.

The Pizza Show added a splash of colour when it arrived in 1956 and became a home from home for the fledgling Beach Boys.

I started in Hawthorne where the three Wilson brothers - Brian, Carl and Dennis - were raised, and joined up with guitarist Al Jardine and vocalist Mike Love to form a group

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I started in Hawthorne where the three Wilson brothers - Brian, Carl and Dennis - were raised, and joined up with guitarist Al Jardine and vocalist Mike Love to form a group

Now run by the son of the original owner, it retains its kitsch medieval Italian interior, with wrought iron chandeliers, tiled awnings and mock grilled windows. 

Foster's Freeze, another gathering place, is a blue-roofed fast-food outlet that offers food from one service hatch and ice cream from another. 

When I arrived Louie Louie, a 1963 hit by The Kingsmen, was playing over speakers in the overhang.

This was the very 'hamburger stand' where Brian Wilson saw a girl pull up in her father's Thunderbird and had the inspiration for Fun Fun Fun.

Hawthorne High School, around the corner on El Segundo Boulevard, is where the Wilson boys and Jardine attended. The Beach Boys came back to play the 1969 prom and honoured the institution in their song Be True to Your School.

The nearest surfing beach to Hawthorne is Manhattan, but the best is Huntington Beach, better known as Surf City USA. Here the sand is soft, the surf is year-round, and the broad beaches stretch for more than eight miles.

Other than Dennis Wilson, The Beach Boys were famously non-surfers, but they were smart enough to observe the burgeoning ocean-side culture and knew there was mileage in chronicling it. 

They mentioned Huntington Beach in Surfin' Safari.

The city of Huntington Beach makes much of its surfers. There's a Walk of Fame, a Hall of Fame and a small International Surfing Museum. 

The sports shops sell everything from boards and wetsuits to sunglasses, caps and jeans.

My hotel, the Waterfront Beach Resort, had a surfboard in the foyer and doorknob signs that read Wiped Out rather than Do Not Disturb.

It was cold and overcast on my first morning but by 8.30am there were already more than 100 surfers bobbing about in the ocean. 

From the pier I could watch them mounting their boards and waiting patiently to ride in on the most powerful of the tall, grey waves.

As if on cue, a local surf music tribute band, The Breakaways dressed in faded blue denims and short-sleeved Hawaiian shirts, began playing at the pier entrance.

An even better insight into surf culture and music came a few days later when The Surfaris drummer David Raven took me to an outdoor gig in Irvine, Orange County, where he played with bassist Jay Truax (ex-Nomads), and guitarists Ron Eglit (Dick Dale and his Band) and Paul Johnson (The Bel-Airs). They called themselves The Legends Surf Band.

We picked up Johnson from his apartment. He was wearing a baseball cap, blue jeans and sandals and had a black patch over his left eye.

On the drive down he told me his story. As a 15-year old schoolboy in 1961 he'd composed a hit tune called Mr Moto for The Bel-Airs.

That summer, when playing at the Knights of Columbus Hall in Redondo Beach, a leading surfer came over to him and said: 'Wow, man! Your music sounds just like it feels out on a wave. You should call it surf music.' So he did.

Other than Dennis Wilson, The Beach Boys were famously non-surfers, but they were smart enough to observe the burgeoning ocean-side culture and knew there was mileage in chronicling it

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Other than Dennis Wilson, The Beach Boys were famously non-surfers, but they were smart enough to observe the burgeoning ocean-side culture and knew there was mileage in chronicling it

When The Beach Boys adopted this sound the hard-core sports crowd initially shunned them.

'As long as they posed as surfers they were resented by those in the true beach culture,' Johnson told me. 

'But when they went on to celebrate California youth culture at large by singing about cars and cruising, that broadened their appeal. After that, even surfers appreciated them.' 

When The Beach Boys started recording their focus shifted from Hawthorne to Hollywood. They signed with Capitol Records, whose 13-storey circular tower at 1750 Vine Street, built in 1956, has become an LA landmark.

Legend has it that the architecture was based on the image of a bunch of singles stacked on the spindle of a record player. The night I visited, Arcade Fire were playing a promotional set on a specially built platform outside the tower.

The Beach Boys' earliest albums were recorded at Capitol but by the time of Surfer Girl and Little Deuce Coupe, they were also recording around the corner at United and Western (6050 Sunset Boulevard).

Now called Ocean Way Studios, this is where they recorded their 2012 comeback album That's Why God Made The Radio.

In 1965, Brian Wilson bought the then-modern 1448 Laurel Way in Beverly Hills with its great views over the LA basin. 

That summer, when playing at the Knights of Columbus Hall in Redondo Beach, a leading surfer came over to him and said: 'Wow, man! Your music sounds just like it feels out on a wave. You should call it surf music'

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That summer, when playing at the Knights of Columbus Hall in Redondo Beach, a leading surfer came over to him and said: 'Wow, man! Your music sounds just like it feels out on a wave. You should call it surf music'

It was here that he notoriously built himself a huge sandbox in the living room to stimulate his creative juices. (The video for Sloop John B was filmed in the garden pool.) 

Two years later he moved to 10452 Bellagio Road in the more upmarket gated community of Bel Air. 

Several Beach Boys' albums, including Smiley Smile, Wild Honey, 20/20 and Surf's Up, were partially recorded here, while Charles Manson, a fringe figure on the LA music scene in 1969, visited to tape songs that he'd written.

In songs such as Little Deuce Coupe, Shut Down, Little Honda, and Fun Fun Fun, The Beach Boys explored the parallel teenage subculture of cruising and hot-rodding.

Illegal street racing still takes place but usually in the early hours of the morning, and it's a crime even to be a spectator.

Custom car shows tend to happen out in the desert rather than in the city. But at the Petersen Automotive Museum (6060 Wilshire Boulevard) it's possible to see everything from hot rods and deuce coupes to Thunderbirds and Chevrolets. 

Spread over two spacious floors, there are plenty of cars from the era The Beach Boys celebrated - a peach-coloured 1957 Lincoln Premiere once owned by Jayne Mansfield, a black 1957 Chrysler, and a wonderful boat-sized 1959 red Cadillac Convertible.

The hot rod section has a classic Deuce Coupe customised from a 1932 Ford. Appropriately the museum cafe, Johnny Rockets, is a 50s-style diner with red plastic seating, chrome surfaces and neon signs.

On my final day I headed north on the Pacific Coast Highway to Malibu.  There's probably no road that better embraces the joys of LA - steep hills and canyons to one side, broad beaches and ocean to the other

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On my final day I headed north on the Pacific Coast Highway to Malibu.  There's probably no road that better embraces the joys of LA - steep hills and canyons to one side, broad beaches and ocean to the other

On my final day I headed north on the Pacific Coast Highway to Malibu. There's probably no road that better embraces the geographical joys of LA - steep hills and canyons to one side, broad beaches and ocean to the other - and no drive is better suited to a Beach Boys' soundtrack. The group even recorded a song about it in 2012.

Beyond Malibu lies Paradise Cove. A left-hand turn took me a mile down a hill to a private beach edged with cliffs where the group was photographed for the cover of 1962's Surfin' Safari, and again two years later for All Summer Long.

Paradise Cove is now home to one of the world's most luxurious trailer parks. Film directors, screenwriters, models and Hollywood actors such as Minnie Driver and Matthew McConaughey have swapped bricks and mortar for transportable homes with a view.

A surfboard-shaped sign ironically declared No Surfboards. The warning was somewhat redundant as beaches can be private but the sea is free and, anyway, the waves are so mild that no serious surfer would choose it.

Maybe that's why The Beach Boys came here - and why they kept their shirts and jeans on during the shoot.

When The Beach Boys first visited London in the Sixties, they were met by scenes of mass hysteria at Heathrow Airport.

The welcome this week, as the five surviving original members hit British shores for the final leg of their 50th anniversary tour, was a little more polite.

But the sense of anticipation surrounding a group who were once dubbed America's Band is still palpable.

Scroll down for the video

It may not be all Fun Fun Fun but they could work together again: Mike Love, Bruce Johnston, Brian Wilson, David Marks and Al Jardine are playing the Royal Albert Hall this evening

It may not be all Fun Fun Fun but they could work together again: Mike Love, Bruce Johnston, Brian Wilson, David Marks and Al Jardine are playing the Royal Albert Hall this evening

The Beach Boys were to American rock what The Beatles were to British pop – and this year's reunion has stirred the imagination of music lovers the world over, even though the future of this latest incarnation has been thrown into doubt by founder member Mike Love's desire to continue playing under the Beach Boys name without three of his current colleagues.

'The first time we came to the UK, our fans actually rushed the plane on the tarmac,' says Al Jardine, another of the quintet's founding members. 'We had to sprint to the terminal building. It was similar to the experiences The Beatles had when they went to the States.

'We didn't have quite the same problem this week, but our fans are still very inventive in the ways that they get to us. They manage to get through our security guys to get their memorabilia signed. The reaction we've had on these dates has been amazing.'

Those clean cut boys: The band as it was in 1960, from l to r, Brian Wilson, Al Jardine, Mike Love, Dennis Wilson, Carl Wilson

Those clean cut boys: The band as it was in 1960, from l to r, Brian Wilson, Al Jardine, Mike Love, Dennis Wilson, Carl Wilson

The announcement, last December, that The Beach Boys were reforming came out of the blue. Four of the five members are now in their seventies, and, as with any band of a certain vintage, there have been several changes along the way.

The group's songwriting genius, Brian Wilson, has toured only intermittently with his cohorts since the Sixties, while Love controls the rights to the band's name.

But, as the quintet gather in a London hotel room, the camaraderie between Love, 71, Wilson, 70, Jardine, 70, Bruce Johnston 70, and David Marks, 64, seems genuine. It is matched, too, by a collective pride at their enduring legacy, something they reiterate in glorious fashion later the same day with a memorable warm-up show at London's Mermaid Theatre.

A journey: After rumours of a feud the surviving Beach Boys members Brian Wilson, David Marks, Bruce Johnston, Al Jardine and Mike Love appear together for the first time in ten years in 2006

A journey: After rumours of a feud the surviving Beach Boys members Brian Wilson, David Marks, Bruce Johnston, Al Jardine and Mike Love appear together for the first time in ten years in 2006

This year's new studio album, That's Why God Made The Radio, was also warmly received, its peerless harmonies and intricate arrangements harking back to the magic of old.

'The tour was sparked by our 50th anniversary,' says Love, who will continue to tour as a Beach Boy alongside Johnston. 'That was the reason we agreed to do a new album and this tour.'

'These concerts are the last in terms of this tour,' he adds. 'But we're still talking about more recordings together.'

Love says that the old chemistry was apparent the minute the band reconvened in a Californian studio.

'People would live vicariously through the music, they could fantasise about the California sun, the coastline, the cars and girls. When you look at the weather you get in the UK, those fantasies make sense.'

Bruce Johnston

'We began by re-recording Do It Again. From then on, there was never any awkwardness. Brian came up with a great arrangement, and everything clicked.

'Picking a set list for the concerts was tough, though. There are so many great singles that are indelibly linked to The Beach Boys.

'You can't ignore California Girls, Good Vibrations or Heroes And Villains. But there are other, more obscure favourites. Bruce performs Disney Girls, Brian does I Just Wasn't Made For These Times, Alan sings Cotton Fields and Dave does Getcha Back. Once you've put those in, you have to drop some big hits. We don't even do I Can Hear Music.'

The music of the Beach Boys falls into two distinct phases. Their early hits were inspired by Californian sun and surf, with the band providing the soundtrack to an endless summer. Of their first five singles, four had the word 'surf' in their title.

'People would live vicariously through the music,' says Bruce Johnston. 'They could fantasise about the California sun, the coastline, the cars and girls. When you look at the weather you get in the UK, those fantasies make sense.'

Chemistry: Love says that the old chemistry was apparent the minute the band reconvened in a Californian studio

Chemistry: Love says that the old chemistry was apparent the minute the band reconvened in a Californian studio

'It's amazing how well the songs from the surf era hold up,' adds Al Jardine. 'California Girls was written 45 years ago, but people still sing along to it. I love hearing David play surf guitar.

'We also have a pretty terrific backing band and they really bring the music to life. When Brian and Mike sing Please Let Me Wonder, the sound is so realistic I'm taken right back in time.'

As the band developed, their surf-rock focus broadened and the songs became more sophisticated. Brian Wilson, who retired from touring after a panic attack on a flight to Australia in 1964, focussed on the studio, where he honed the experimental streak that became a hallmark of the era-defining Pet Sounds album and the singles Good Vibrations and Heroes And Villains.

'From 1965 to 1967, there was a tremendous burst of creativity,' says Love. 'With Brian in the studio, we came on in leaps and bounds. Touring without him was a drag emotionally, but he had been under a lot of pressure to keep creating. It was asking too much for him to do the recording and touring together.'

Still performing: Musicians Brian Wilson and Mike Love of The Beach Boys and Adam Levine of Maroon 5 perform onstage at the 54th Annual GRAMMY Awards earlier this year

Still performing: Musicians Brian Wilson and Mike Love of The Beach Boys and Adam Levine of Maroon 5 perform onstage at the 54th Annual GRAMMY Awards earlier this year

As his bandmates chat, Wilson initially takes a back seat. As the memories flood back, however, his eyes light up, especially as talk turns to Pet Sounds and its timeless 'pocket symphony' God Only Knows, hailed by Paul McCartney as the greatest pop song ever written.

'I was aware that God Only Knows was magical as I was writing it,' says Brian. 'It was a song with the glow of heaven. It came to me very easily, and it is fantastic to sing it again.

'The great thing about the reunion is that all of the band are top of the line vocalists,' he adds. 'We're all great singers, and that's why it's a thrill for me to be back with the guys.'

Love, sometimes portrayed as being resistant to the shift from surf-pop to more complex styles, now says he was wholly behind the progression, blaming Pet Sounds' initial lack of success on the band's US label.

Triple Platinum: Rock band The Beach Boys (from L-R) Mike Love, Bruce Johnston, Brian Wilson, David Marks and Al Jardine accept the triple-Platinum awards for Sounds Of Summer

Triple Platinum: Rock band The Beach Boys (from L-R) Mike Love, Bruce Johnston, Brian Wilson, David Marks and Al Jardine accept the triple-Platinum awards for Sounds Of Summer

'The problem was that Capitol Records still wanted to promote us as America's number one surf group. They wanted us to do more songs like Fun, Fun, Fun, but Pet Sounds had nothing to do with our previous subject matter, so it was tough.

'Maybe if we'd put Good Vibrations on the album, it would have been a different story. That would have been an obvious step towards more psychedelic music.

'But Brian wanted to save it for the next album. Sometimes you can outsmart yourself, and that's what we did there.'

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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  •  
  • COLD WAR TO NUCLEAR WINTER

     

     

     

     

     

    A Typhoon takes off from RAF Coningsby in Lincolnshire at 4.30pm on Wednesday, shortly before the Russian planes were intercepted

    A Typhoon takes off from RAF Coningsby in Lincolnshire at 4.30pm on Wednesday, shortly before the Russian planes were intercepted.

      Dangerous: Despite the exclusion zone, surrounding area is still exposed to between 20 and 30 times the usual level of background radiation, and nobody knows quite what effect this has on people's health (pictured, commuters in Kiev, 83 miles away from Chernobyl)  

    Concerns are growing over Russian ships that have docked in a once-secret naval base in the Arctic.

    Military leaders in Norway are nervous about its powerful neighbour's presence on its 'strategically important' coastline following a spike in tensions between Russia and NATO nations.

    Some experts have criticised the shutting down of Olavsvern Naval Base - a huge complex buried in mountainous terrain near the town of Tromsoe - which has been closed since 2009.

    But fears have once again peaked after three Russian ships spent the entire winter docked deep within the mountain hideaway which was once a heavily guarded military facility.

    Show of strength: Norway's military leaders are growing concerned after three Russian warships spent the winter docked inside a closed naval base (file photo) deep inside the country's mountainous terrain

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    Show of strength: Norway's military leaders are growing concerned after three Russian warships spent the winter docked inside a closed naval base (file photo) deep inside the country's mountainous terrain

    Aggression: In February, RAF planes intercepted two Russian bombers (file photo) which had flown into Irish territory and forced a passenger jet to divert its course

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    Aggression: In February, RAF planes intercepted two Russian bombers (file photo) which had flown into Irish territory and forced a passenger jet to divert its course

    Force: And late last year, the Russian navy anti-submarine ship Severomorsk (file photo) and three other Russian ships had to be escorted out of the British channel 

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    Force: And late last year, the Russian navy anti-submarine ship Severomorsk (file photo) and three other Russian ships had to be escorted out of the British channel

    NATO fighter jets intercept Russian bombers (Related)

    It was originally shut because the country's leaders thought the threat from Moscow was reduced, despite its massive Northern Fleet which is base in the nearby Kola Peninsula.

    Norway's former vice admiral said shutting down the base was 'pure madness' while other critics say their submarines now have to travel hundreds of extra miles to protect the region.

    This is far from the first time Russia has flexed its military muscles in other countries' territory.

    In February, a passenger plane had to be diverted to avoid two Russian bombers that flew through Irish-controlled airspace without warning.

    The disruption on February 18 was thought to have occurred during the same incident in which British RAF Typhoon fighters were scrambled to escort the Russian vessels.

    That move was perceived as a show of strength by Russian President Vladimir Putin over the Ukraine conflict after Prime Minister David Cameron accused him of challenging the 'territorial integrity' of Kiev.

    It followed a separate incident when the Royal Navy had to intercept a Russian warship which strayed to close to the UK while passing through the English channel the same month.

    The Neustrashimy-class warship – equipped with missiles, anti-aircraft guns and torpedoes – was monitored and escorted by a heavily-armed British frigate.

    Cat and mouse: Heavily-armed HMS Argyll follows the Russian warship (back left) as it passes through the English Channel in February

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    Cat and mouse: Heavily-armed HMS Argyll follows the Russian warship (back left) as it passes through the English Channel in February

    Intercepted: Footage released on Russian TV showed the moment two RAF jets escorted the Russian bomber in February

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    Intercepted: Footage released on Russian TV showed the moment two RAF jets escorted the Russian bomber in February

    Concerned: They are worried by this perceived show of strength from Moscow (Russian President Vladimir Putin pictured) and its presence on its 'strategically important' coastline

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    Concerned: They are worried by this perceived show of strength from Moscow (Russian President Vladimir Putin pictured) and its presence on its 'strategically important' coastline

    And late last year, the HMS Tyne had to escort another Russian destroyer and three other boats from the Channel as they passed through the Strait of Dover after carrying out military exercises in the North Sea.

    HOW MOSCOW HAS MUSCLED IN

    Since January 2014, there have been at least 17 shows of military strength by Russia near the UK. The most serious included:

    Feb 18: RAF jets scrambled after two Russian Bear bombers spotted off the coast of Cornwall, forcing a flight from Dublin to divert.

    Feb 15: Russian warship intercepted by Royal Navy in the English Channel.

    Jan 28: RAF fighters challenge two Russian bombers capable of carrying nuclear missiles south of Bournemouth.

    Jan 8: Defence chiefs ask for US help to hunt a suspected Russian submarine lurking off the coast of Scotland.

    Nov 2014: Russian flotilla on military exercise in the Channel escorted from UK waters by HMS Tyne.

    Nov 2014: Nato aircraft called in to hunt suspected Russian submarine off the west coast of Scotland.

    Oct 2014: RAF Typhoon warplanes shadow two Bears as they fly down the west coast of Britain.

    Elinar Skorgen added: 'We are the only country along with Russia to have a permanent presence in the Barents Sea, where we share a common border.

    Obviously our navy should be stationed there, including our submarines. If the ships aren't there where they are needed, they might as well be scrapped altogether.'

    The Armed forces put the base - which cost over £390million to construct - up for sale on Norway's version of eBay.

    It was eventually bought for just £3.5million by a Norwegian businessmen and was rented out to Russian research vessels which were reportedly linked to the country's state-owned energy giant Gazprom.

    Its landlord Gunnar Wilhelmsen said: 'There are no longer any secrets surrounding this base... Not since the military and NATO agreed to put it on sale over the Internet, along with photographs of every nook and cranny.'

    Many military experts are now worried by the the potential for Russian military activity aboard the research vessels.

    A former second in command for the Norwegian military said: 'Russia is a country where the state has a say over all commercial or semi-state business. It's clear, very few people know what happens on these vessels.'

    Jan Reksten believes the sale of Olavsvern was 'a double loss' as 'Norway's armed forces lost an important base and now there are Russian vessels docked there'.

    Russia is going on a huge military shopping spree for warplanes, tanks, missiles and submarines as tensions with Nato and the U.S. continue to escalate.

    Kremlin demand boosted Russian arms companies' sales by more than a fifth last year compared to the year before, according to data from the Stockholm International Peace Research Institute.

    Russia's top 10 weapons makers had combined sales of £31billion in 2013, SIPRI's research revealed, placing the country behind the U.S. and the UK in the list of biggest arms-selling nations.

    Scroll down for video

    High tech weapons: A Sukhoi Su-35 multi-role fighter aircraft. Russia is going on a huge military shopping spree for warplanes, tanks, missiles and submarines as tensions with Nato and the U.S. continue to escalate

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    High tech weapons: A Sukhoi Su-35 multi-role fighter aircraft. Russia is going on a huge military shopping spree for warplanes, tanks, missiles and submarines as tensions with Nato and the U.S. continue to escalate

    Modernisation programme: Russian long-range high-precision Iskander missile launchers take part in a military parade during celebrations marking Independence Day in Minsk, Belarus

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    Modernisation programme: Russian long-range high-precision Iskander missile launchers take part in a military parade during celebrations marking Independence Day in Minsk, Belarus

    An amoured personnel carrier (APC) rolls on a main road in rebel-territory near the village of Torez, east of Donetsk, in eastern Ukraine. Russia denies Nato accusations it is providing support to Ukraine's rebels

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    An amoured personnel carrier (APC) rolls on a main road in rebel-territory near the village of Torez, east of Donetsk, in eastern Ukraine. Russia denies Nato accusations it is providing support to Ukraine's rebels

    Russian military column heading towards Ukrainian border

    The increase in the revenue of Russian arms makers is largely due to Moscow's 'ongoing project to strengthen indigenous arms procurement,' SIPRI says.

    This summer the Kremlin announced it will spend about $600billion on its state armaments programme by 2020 to upgrade and modernise its military capabilities.

    The rise in sales comes after an even bigger increase registered the year before, 2012, when SIPRI said Russian arms makers' revenues were up 35 per cent.

    The military modernisation programme comes despite an economic crisis in Russia worsened by Western sanctions and plummetting oil and gas prices.

    Russia's has the world's third highest defence budget, having doubled its military expenditure since 2004. Spending on the military is set to rise by 85 per cent between 2012 and 2017, CNN Money reported.

    The Kremlin's spending is still dwarfed by the world's biggest players, however. China spent twice as much as Russia on its military last year, while the U.S. spent more than seven times as much.

    Growth industry: Sales by Russian arms makers were up 20 per cent between 2012 and 2013, even as sales by other countries' arms industries slid, according to Stockholm International Peace Research Institute data

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    Growth industry: Sales by Russian arms makers were up 20 per cent between 2012 and 2013, even as sales by other countries' arms industries slid, according to Stockholm International Peace Research Institute data

    Massive arms industry: This graphic by the Stockholm International Peace Research Institute shows how Russia is now the third-biggest arms manufacturer by sales, after the UK and the U.S.

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    Massive arms industry: This graphic by the Stockholm International Peace Research Institute shows how Russia is now the third-biggest arms manufacturer by sales, after the UK and the U.S.

    CNN Money reports that the Kremlin has 'airfields, hundreds of fighter jets and a new fleet of battle tanks ... in the works', as well as eight new ships ready by 2020 and a new advanced nuclear submarine already delivered.

    The figures come from SIPRI's index of the 100 leading arms companies, published today. The 100 companies had global sales of a mammoth $402billion last year, which despite three years of declines remains 45.5 per cent higher than the total figure for 2002.

    SIPRI's index excludes Chinese arms companies due to a lack of data.

    Russia and the West are more at odds than at any time since the end of the Cold War.

    Russia accuses Europe and the U.S. over engineering a right-wing coup in Ukraine, while Nato says Moscow is providing material support to partisans opposing Kiev's new regime.

    Meanwhile, Nato allies have accused Russia of stepping up military activity around Europe.

    British Foreign Secretary Micheal Fallon yesterday accused Vladimir Putin of playing a ‘provocative and dangerous’ game by ordering Russian Bear bombers to fly near British waters.

    Mr Fallon said Mr Putin’s new aggression could even spark a war with Nato forces. In a blunt message, he said Britain should ‘prepare for the worst’ as the Russian President flexes his muscles.

    President Putin makes annual state of nation address

    Closely watched: RAF Typhoon jets were scrambled in October to track this Russian Tu-95 Bear H bomber, one of two which flew close to Britain without filing flight plans or communicating with air traffic controllers.

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    Closely watched: RAF Typhoon jets were scrambled in October to track this Russian Tu-95 Bear H bomber, one of two which flew close to Britain without filing flight plans or communicating with air traffic controllers.

    Followed: These RAF images show the moment the aircraft were escorted by Typhoons near British airspace

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    Followed: These RAF images show the moment the aircraft were escorted by Typhoons near British airspace

    SIPRI says the crisis in Ukraine could help boost Russian arms sales.

    Aude Fleurant, research director at the institute, told CNN Money reporter Ivana Kottasova: 'It is too early to say, but the conflict is likely to have an impact on some specific orders - especially conventional ammunition.'

    Siemon Wezeman, Senior Researcher with the SIPRI Arms and Military Expenditure Programme, said: 'The remarkable increases in Russian companies’ arms sales in both 2012 and 2013 are in large part due to uninterrupted investments in military procurement by the Russian Government during the 2000s.

    'These investments are explicitly intended to modernise national production capabilities and weapons in order to bring them on par with major U.S. and Western European arms producers’ capabilities and technologies.'

    For the second time this year, a Russian military aircraft turned off its transponders to avoid commercial radar and nearly collided with a passenger jet over Sweden, officials have revealed.

    Swedish authorities yesterday said a Russian military aircraft nearly collided above southern Sweden with a commercial passenger jet that had taken off on Friday from Copenhagen.

    Swedish Defense Minister Peter Hultqvist told a local radio station: 'This is serious. This is inappropriate. This is outright dangerous when you turn off the transponder.'

    For the second time this year, a Russian military aircraft turned off its transponders to avoid commercial radar and nearly collided with a passenger jet over Sweden, officials have revealed; pictured above is a Russian fighter jet which was spotted off the coast of Norway in 2007

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    For the second time this year, a Russian military aircraft turned off its transponders to avoid commercial radar and nearly collided with a passenger jet over Sweden, officials have revealed; pictured above is a Russian fighter jet which was spotted off the coast of Norway in 2007

    In October RAF Typhoon jets were scrambled to track this Russian Tu-95 Bear H bomber, one of two which flew close to Britain without filing flight plans or communicating with air traffic controllers. Some 26 intercepts were made in around 24 hours

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    In October RAF Typhoon jets were scrambled to track this Russian Tu-95 Bear H bomber, one of two which flew close to Britain without filing flight plans or communicating with air traffic controllers. Some 26 intercepts were made in around 24 hours

    Officials at Russia's Ministry of Defense in Moscow were not immediately available to comment.

    Sweden's air force chief, Major General Micael Byden, said the incident in international air space looked 'pretty serious,' adding the southern-bound commercial flight was immediately ordered to change course.

    Swedish fighter jets were sent up to identify the aircraft, and later confirmed it as a Russian intelligence plane.

    Media in Sweden and Denmark said the commercial plane was en route to Poland, but the carrier and the number of passengers it has on board has not been reported.

    Byden said this was not as serious as in March when a Russian plane flying without transponders came within 300 feet of an SAS plane that had taken off from Copenhagen.

    In recent months, Russia has increased its military presence in the Baltic Sea area, prompting some Swedish officials to compare it to the Cold War

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    In recent months, Russia has increased its military presence in the Baltic Sea area, prompting some Swedish officials to compare it to the Cold War

    In October, non-NATO Sweden launched its first submarine hunt since the collapse of the Soviet Union. Swedish authorities said a small, foreign submarine had entered its waters illegally but never found it and didn't disclose its nationality

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    In October, non-NATO Sweden launched its first submarine hunt since the collapse of the Soviet Union. Swedish authorities said a small, foreign submarine had entered its waters illegally but never found it and didn't disclose its nationality

    In recent months, Russia has increased its military presence in the Baltic Sea area, prompting some Swedish officials to compare it to the Cold War.

    In October, non-NATO Sweden launched its first submarine hunt since the collapse of the Soviet Union. Swedish authorities said a small, foreign submarine had entered its waters illegally but never found it and didn't disclose its nationality.

    NATO has air patrols over the Baltic Sea and the continuous rotation of NATO military units in and out of countries such as the Baltic states and Poland.  

    Poland is set to build watchtowers along the border to the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad, a local news agency reports.

    The towers, costing the Polish government £2.5million, will range from 115ft to 164ft and help monitor the 124mile long border between the two countries using CCTV.

    The increased border monitoring comes amid heightened tensions between Russia and Poland, a member of both NATO and the European Union, over the conflict in Ukraine.

    Keeping an eye out: Poland is erecting watchtowers along the border to Russian exclave Kaliningrad (pictured) as tensions between the two countries are heightened

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    Keeping an eye out: Poland is erecting watchtowers along the border to Russian exclave Kaliningrad (pictured) as tensions between the two countries are heightened

    Last month, Moscow announced plans on placing state-of-the-art Iskander missiles in Kaliningrad for what government representatives called a 'major military exercise'.

    Russian President Vladimir Putin has also been accused of singling out Poland as an enemy in the ongoing conflict in Ukraine, accusing it of training 'Ukrainian nationalists' and instigating unrest.

    'We are currently in the test phase of the technical installations on the towers,' Mirosława Aleksandrowicz from the Warmia-Masurian Border Guard told the PAP news agency.

    The construction of the watchtowers, due to be finished in June, is set to cost the Polish government 14million zloty (£2.5million) with a majority of the funding coming from the EU's External Borders Fund.

    Kaliningrad, which has a population of just under 1million, plays an important role in the maintenance of the Russian Baltic fleet.

    Getting ready: The CCTV towers will  will monitor the border between Poland and Kaliningrad, where Moscow recently announced they are set to place state-of-the-art Iskander missiles

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    Getting ready: The CCTV towers will will monitor the border between Poland and Kaliningrad, where Moscow recently announced they are set to place state-of-the-art Iskander missiles

    When neighbouring countries Poland and Lithuania joined the EU in May 2004, strict border controls were imposed.

    Moscow has proposed visa-free travel between Kaliningrad and the EU several times, but the motions have been rejected.

    The new border watchtowers will be erected at a time when tension around the Baltic Sea is reaching new heights.

    Last month, Swedish Air Force and NATO jets tracked four Russian combat aircraft - two long-range, nuclear-capable Tu-22M3 bombers and two Sukhoi Su-27 fighters - flying with their transponders turned off in international airspace over the Baltic Sea.

    NATO said it scrambled Danish jets and Italian jets based in Lithuania to identify the Russian aircraft which it said were heading to Kaliningrad.

    'The Russian military aircraft did not use their onboard transponder; they were not in contact with civilian Air Traffic Control and they were not on a pre-filed flight plan,' a NATO military officer said.

    Last month, Russian military maneuvers that spread from the Arctic to the Black Sea involved 80,000 troops, about 100 navy ships and more than 220 aircraft.

     

     
     

    Military chiefs have warned that Britain has entered a new Cold War with Russia, as Vladimir Putin threatened anyone who tried to pressure his country.

    Amid growing tensions over Ukraine, Putin said ‘no one should have any illusions that it’s possible to achieve military superiority over Russia or apply any kind of pressure on it’.

    Adding that his forces would always have an ‘adequate response’, he vowed to step up an ambitious military modernisation, with hundreds of new combat jets, missiles and other weapons.

    His comments sparked renewed concern about the UK’s capability to cope in the event of a conflict with Russia.

    Britain’s top military commander in Nato spoke of an ‘era of constant competition with Russia’, while a former RAF chief said the UK was in ‘a different sort of Cold War.’

    Formidable: Putin vowed to step up an ambitious military modernisation, with hundreds of new combat jets, missiles and other weapons Despite an economic downturn caused by low oil prices and Western sanctions over Ukraine, Russia's military budget has risen by one-third this year

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    Formidable: Putin vowed to step up an ambitious military modernisation, with hundreds of new combat jets, missiles and other weapons Despite an economic downturn caused by low oil prices and Western sanctions over Ukraine, Russia's military budget has risen by one-third this year

    This week, RAF fighter jets were scrambled to intercept two Russian bombers capable of carrying nuclear missiles off the Cornwall coast. Russian military planes, ships and submarines have made at least 17 incursions close to the UK since the start of 2014 as Moscow tests Western response times.

    President Vladimir Putin has vowed that Russia will never yield to foreign pressure

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    President Vladimir Putin has vowed that Russia will never yield to foreign pressure

    General Sir Adrian Bradshaw, Nato’s deputy supreme allied commander in Europe, said tensions with Russia could become an all-out conflict. Putin could invade and seize Nato territory and change Europe’s borders, he added in a speech at the Royal United Services Institute in London.

    The general said: ‘The threat from Russia and the risk it brings of miscalculation resulting in a strategic conflict, represents an existential threat to our whole being.’

    He claimed Russia may use traditional Soviet tactics of ‘escalation dominance’ or hybrid warfare.

    Putin could generate large-scale conventional forces at ‘very short notice’, after calculating the alliance would be too afraid of escalating violence to respond, he said.

    Former RAF chief Sir Michael Graydon said there was ‘no doubt’ Europe and the Kremlin were engaged in conflict, with tensions similar to those seen in the 1980s – when the Russians would probe British air defences to work out how quickly they could respond.

    ‘Today it is to check our air defences and they have probably worked out we are not as sharp as we were, and it is also them saying here we are … a powerful nation,’ Sir Michael said.

    He added: ‘It is a different sort of Cold War. Putin is focusing on weaknesses in the EU.

    ‘He feels Nato has pushed Russia in Europe and made him feel vulnerable and is seeing what he can get away with. If he sees weaknesses he will exploit it.

    'There is no doubt there is a competition and conflict on.  He wants to establish Russia as another great power.’

    Referring to crisis in Ukraine, the Prime Minister said the West would be ‘staunch’ in response and was prepared to pressure Moscow ‘for the long term’.

    David Cameron warned there will be 'more consequences' and further sanctions for Russia if the ceasefire does not hold.

    He rejected the assessment of a parliamentary committee that the UK found itself 'sleep-walking' into the crisis over Ukraine, insisting the blame for the situation lay 'squarely' with Russia and its president Mr Putin.

    Speaking on a visit to Govan shipyard in Glasgow, the Prime Minister said: 'I don't accept this. The responsibility for what has happened in Ukraine lies absolutely squarely with Vladimir Putin and Russia.

    'They destabilised and effectively invaded this country and have caused all the problems that have happened since.

    'What Britain and countries of the European Union have done is merely to say that Ukraine should be able to choose its own future.'

    He said Britain had led the way in terms of calling for Russia to be thrown out of the G8 and pushed for strong sanctions and vowed not to back down.

    Escalation: According to the Kremlin-backed news channel RT, Russia today began deploying its next-generation 'Nebo-M' anti-missile radar system to counter the threat from NATO anti-ballistic missile systems in Eastern Europe

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    Escalation: According to the Kremlin-backed news channel RT, Russia today began deploying its next-generation 'Nebo-M' anti-missile radar system to counter the threat from NATO anti-ballistic missile systems in Eastern Europe

     

    Defence Secretary Michael Fallon, left, said that Russian aggression poses 'as great a threat to Europe as the Islamic State' claiming Vladimir Putin was testing Nato by deploying submarines and warplanes near British territory Defence Secretary Michael Fallon, left, said that Russian aggression poses 'as great a threat to Europe as the Islamic State' claiming Vladimir Putin was testing Nato by deploying submarines and warplanes near British territory

    Defence Secretary Michael Fallon, left, said that Russian aggression poses 'as great a threat to Europe as the Islamic State' claiming Vladimir Putin was testing Nato by deploying submarines and warplanes near British territory

    'In terms of what Britain has done, we were the first country to say that Russia should be thrown out of the G8, and Russia was thrown out of the G8. We have been the strongest adherent that we need strong sanctions in Europe and we've pushed for those, achieved those and held onto those at every single occasion.

    'What we need to do now is to deliver the strongest possible message to Putin and to Russia that what has happened is unacceptable, that the ceasefires need to hold and if they don't there will be more consequences, more sanctions, more measures.

    'The truth here is that we have to be clear that we're prepared to do this for the long term and that Russia should not make the mistake of thinking in any way that America, Britain, France or Germany will be divided or will be weak. We won't. We'll be staunch, we'll be strong, we'll be resolute and in the end, we'll prevail.'

    Nato has agreed to set up a rapid reaction force of about 5,000 soldiers ready to move within 48 hours in case of Russian aggression in Eastern Europe.

    Sir Adrian said this would show Russia that an attack on any Nato member would ‘lead them to a conflict with the whole alliance’.

    He said Nato units, to be built in each Eastern state, could be required to ‘support our eastern members’. He also revealed a ‘refreshed system of warnings’ to identify threats such as cyber-attacks, subversion and hostile propaganda.

    Nato leaders fear disguised, irregular military action by Russia, carefully calculated to avoid triggering the alliance’s mutual defence pact.

    The increasingly fragile ceasefire appeared close to breaking point amid claims by the U.S. that pro-Russian rebels had fired on Kiev forces 49 times in the last 48 hours and more than 250 times since the start of the truce on Sunday.

    If a lasting peace-deal is struck it will most likely see pro-Russian separatists, which many believe effectively means Moscow, holding on to the territory they have gained.

    Vladimir Putin poses with World War II veterans after a ceremony of presenting jubilee medals in honor of the 70th anniversary of the victory in the World War II to WWII veterans in the St. George Hall of the Grand Kremlin Palace in Moscow

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    Vladimir Putin poses with World War II veterans after a ceremony of presenting jubilee medals in honor of the 70th anniversary of the victory in the World War II to WWII veterans in the St. George Hall of the Grand Kremlin Palace in Moscow

    The General added: 'The danger that Russia might believe that the large scale conventional forces which she has shown she can generate at very short notice as we saw in the snap exercise that preceded the take-over of Crimea could in future be used not only for intimidation and coercion but potentially to seize Nato territory.

    'After which the threat of escalation might be used to prevent re-establishment of territorial integrity. This use of so-called escalation dominance was of course a classic Soviet technique.'

    The General's comments echo those made by Defence Secretary Michael Fallon who said that Russian aggression poses 'as great a threat to Europe as the Islamic State'.

    Mr Fallon warned of the threat to Latvia, Lithuania and Estonia and claimed Vladimir Putin was continuing to 'test us' by deploying submarines and warplanes near British territory.

    'The Russian defence spending is clearly worrying. Russia is modernising their conventional forces, they are modernising their nuclear forces and they are testing Nato so we need to respond.

    'Mr Putin is as great a threat to Europe as the Islamic State', he said, adding: 'We' ve got to be ready for both. They are both very direct threats to Europe.'

    Mr Fallon said he was worried that Russia could use the same subversive techniques which they used to annex Crimea in the Baltic States, including Latvia, Lithuania and Estonia. 

    He said: 'If you look at the number of flights, maritime activity… he flew two Russian bombers down the English Channel two weeks ago suddenly on a Wednesday morning. We had to scramble the jets very quickly to see them off.'

    The Kremlin-backed Russian news channel RT reported that Russia had begun deploying its next-generation 'Nebo-M' anti-missile radar system to counter the threat from NATO anti-ballistic missile systems in Eastern Europe.

    This week RAF fighters intercepted two Russian bombers skirting British airspace off the coast of Cornwall, where they were intercepted and escorted by the two RAF Typhoon fighters.

    Footage shown on Russian TV of a similar incident last year shows armed RAF and Nato jets flying in close formation with the plane and provides clear views of the bomber's turboprop engines. One RAF Typhoon flies so close that the pilot can clearly be seen through the cockpit glass.

    The footage emerged as former military top brass warned Britain cannot defend itself against the military threat posed by Russia.

    Military chiefs said the UK 'could not cope' if Russia attacked because our defences had been 'decimated'.

    Vladimir Putin, left, presents World War II veteran Valentin Gavrilov with a jubilee medal during an award ceremony in the Kremlin today

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    Vladimir Putin, left, presents World War II veteran Valentin Gavrilov with a jubilee medal during an award ceremony in the Kremlin today

    Top brass: Russian President Vladimir Putin  meets with newly appointed high-ranking military officers during a ceremony in the Kremlin

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    Top brass: Russian President Vladimir Putin meets with newly appointed high-ranking military officers during a ceremony in the Kremlin

    The Russian leader listens to Lyudmila Narusova, the widow of former St. Petersburg mayor Anatoly Sobchak, as they take part in a flower laying ceremony at the monument to Sobchak in St. Petersburg, yesterday

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    The Russian leader listens to Lyudmila Narusova, the widow of former St. Petersburg mayor Anatoly Sobchak, as they take part in a flower laying ceremony at the monument to Sobchak in St. Petersburg, yesterday

    In a sign of the growing provocation from Russian president Vladimir Putin, the Tupolev Tu95 Bear aircraft streaked along the fringes of UK airspace, prompting the deployment of two state-of-the-art Typhoons.

    David Cameron defiantly dismissed the incident, saying the Russians 'are trying to make some sort of a point, and I don't think we should dignify it with too much of a response'.

    He added: 'I think what this episode demonstrates is that we do have the fast jets, the pilots, the systems in place to protect the UK.'

    But former air chiefs rubbished the Prime Minister's claims, saying the number of British fighter squadrons had plunged from 26 at the end of the Cold War to just seven following heavy RAF cuts by successive governments.

    Sir Michael Graydon, former head of the RAF, said: 'I very much doubt whether the UK could sustain a shooting war against Russia. We are at half the capabilities we had previously.'

    Russian military planes, ships and submarines have made at least 17 incursions close to the UK since the start of last year as the increasingly truculent regime in Moscow tests Western response times.

    Sir Michael added: 'They fly in these regions to check our air defences and have probably worked out we are not as sharp as we were.

    'They know it is provocative and they are doing it at a time when defence in the west is pretty wet compared to where they are.'

    The footage is believed to be from one of the previous occasions that Nato fighters have been sent to monitor the activities of Russian aircraft

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    The footage is believed to be from one of the previous occasions that Nato fighters have been sent to monitor the activities of Russian aircraft

    Moment Putin's 'Bear Bomber' is intercepted by NATO aircraft

     

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    Heavily armed: The video shows the full arsenal of the Typhoon as it flies next to the bomber. The tail badge shows it comes from Lossiemouth

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    Heavily armed: The video shows the full arsenal of the Typhoon as it flies next to the bomber. The tail badge shows it comes from Lossiemouth

    HEAD TO HEAD: HOW THE RAF'S MOST MODERN JET COMPARES TO RUSSIA'S LONG-SERVING BOMBER OF CHOICE

    Tupolev Tu-95

    First flown - 1952

    Length - 46metres

    Wingspan - 50metres

    Crew - 6-7

    Loaded weight - 170,000kg

    Max speed - 575mph

    Range - 9,000miles

    Armoury - Up to 15,000kg of missiles and bombs

    Estimated cost - £20million

    Number built - More than 500

    Eurofighter Typhoon

    First flown - 1994

    Length - 15metres

    Wingspan - 11metres

    Crew - 1

    Loaded weight - 16,000kg

    Max Speed - 1,320mph

    Range - 2,900miles

    Armoury - Revolving cannon, 8 air-to-air missiles, laser-guided bombs

    Estimated cost - £125million

    Number built - 427 so far

    Since 2010, the Coalition has axed 30,000 soldiers, sailors and airmen as well as hundreds of warships, fighter jets, spy planes and tanks in a bid to cut the Ministry of Defence's budget by £4.7 billion and plug a £40 billion hole in equipment spending.

    Meanwhile, the Russian defence budget has grown by 33 per cent to £54billion over the past year, compared with Britain’s £36.4billion. The UK has 154,227 troops. Russia has 771,000 troops, three times more nuclear-powered submarines and 12 times the number of tanks. 

    Air Commodore Andrew Lambert, who commanded Allied forces in northern Iraq in 1999, said: 'If the Russians turned up the heat, we would struggle badly.

    'If Putin wanted to attack, he would not send a pair of bombers, he would send the lot and saturate our defences; we couldn't cope.

    'The Typhoon is a really good aircraft but with their relatively small numbers they would be overwhelmed: the Russians would outflank us, go around us or just go through us.'

    He added: 'The modern generation of politicians has grown up in absolute security – they've never felt a threat to their existence, safety or security.

    'They've taken peace for granted and decimated the Armed Forces. Let's hope we don't pay the price.'

    The latest incident came as Defence Secretary Michael Fallon warned that Putin posed a 'real and present danger' to three former Soviet satellites in the Baltics – Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia.

    Vladimir Komoyedov, chairman of the Russian parliament's defence committee, accused Mr Fallon, 62, of 'stupidity'.

    He added: 'I feel that he is a bit too old, not only in terms of his age but also in his ideas.'

    Prime Minister David Cameron in Suffolk yesterday Defence Secretary Michael Fallon (above) said that Putin posed a 'real and present danger' to three former Soviet satellites in the Baltics Russian President Vladimir Putin in St Petersburg yesterday

    Tensions: Prime Minister David Cameron (left, pictured yesterday in Suffolk) defiantly dismissed the incident, which was a sign of the growing provocation from Russian president Vladimir Putin (right, pictured yesterday in St Petersburg). Defence Secretary Michael Fallon (centre) said that Putin posed a 'real and present danger' to three former Soviet satellites in the Baltics

    Former UK ambassador to Moscow Sir Andrew Wood BBC Radio 4's Today programme this morning: 'It's a dangerous moment because Russia is a state of, in a sense, frozen anarchy. It's not a proper state.

    'What they've done in Ukraine is to begin an adventure. They don't know how to end it, so there is some danger that their frustrations there will overspill into other areas.

    'The Baltic states have been under pressure from Russia. But the majority of Russian-speaking citizens of those Baltic states actually do not want change. They are not emigrating to Russia. They would rather be in the EU and they would rather come to the West freely, which they do.'

    The two Typhoons, armed with air-to-air missiles, were launched from RAF Coningsby in Lincolnshire on Wednesday after the Russian bombers were spotted at 6.30pm.

    They were escorted as they flew south, then turned around and flew north past the Irish coast.

    Elizabeth Quintana, of defence think-tank the Royal United Services Institute, said: 'We have to find a way to stop the Russians because there is a chance things could get very nasty very quickly.'

    The House of Lords' EU Sub-Committee on External Affairs today accused Britain and the EU of 'sleepwalking' into the Ukraine crisis, by failing to read Russia's political ambitions.

    A report said: 'There has been a strong element of 'sleepwalking' into the current crisis, with Member States being taken by surprise by events in Ukraine.'

    It added: 'A loss of collective analytical capacity has weakened Member States' ability to read the political shifts in Russia and to offer an authoritative response.'

     

    Living and working in Chernobyl: Fascinating insight into the lives of those who work and live in the exclusion zone around the nuclear plant nearly 30 years after disaster that shook the world

    • Almost 30 years on from the Chernobyl nuclear disaster, almost 7,000 people are still working at the power plant
    • Some live inside the exclusion zone for up to 14 days at a time, while others commute in from nearby towns
    • Despite being outside the exclusion zone, levels of radiation in these towns is still up to 30 times higher than usual
    • Another 400 elderly people, mostly poor farmers and former plant workers, have resettled inside the exclusion zone

    On the 26 April, 1986, the nuclear power plant at Chernobyl went into meltdown, eventually exploding and covering 56,700 square miles of Ukraine, Russia and Belarus, a region home to six million people, in a cloud of nuclear dust.

    The cities and villages surrounding the nuclear plant were first evacuated, and then abandoned as the government set up a huge exclusion zone around the plant, covering a total of 819 square miles.

    To most Ukrainians the exclusion zone is a frightening place, a dark spot on the map where few dare to venture. For those who grew up around Chernobyl, however, the thought of leaving home was just too painful. Now, 30 years on from the disaster, life continues here, though in a sorry and often desperate state.

    Scroll down for videos

    Struggle: Almost 30 years on from the Chernobyl nuclear disaster, life continues at the power plant despite a 25-mile exclusion zone. Every day almost 7,000 workers come here to help decommission the plant (pictured, workers take radiation tests before returning home)

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    Struggle: Almost 30 years on from the Chernobyl nuclear disaster, life continues at the power plant despite a 25-mile exclusion zone. Every day almost 7,000 workers come here to help decommission the plant (pictured, workers take radiation tests before returning home)

    Suffering: Some workers live inside the irradiated zone for up to 14 days at a time, while others commute in from towns just outside the quarantined area. Vachislav Danilov, a medical researcher, commutes from Slavutich, 40 miles from the power plant

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    Suffering: Some workers live inside the irradiated zone for up to 14 days at a time, while others commute in from towns just outside the quarantined area. Vachislav Danilov, a medical researcher, commutes from Slavutich, 40 miles from the power plant

    Dangerous: Despite the exclusion zone, surrounding area is still exposed to between 20 and 30 times the usual level of background radiation, and nobody knows quite what effect this has on people's health (pictured, commuters in Kiev, 83 miles away from Chernobyl)

    Dangerous: Despite the exclusion zone, surrounding area is still exposed to between 20 and 30 times the usual level of background radiation, and nobody knows quite what effect this has on people's health (pictured, commuters in Kiev, 83 miles away from Chernobyl)

    Legacy of disater: Pictured are Tania Bokova and husband Sergii Bokov. Tania is an administrator taking charge of decommissioning Chernobyl, and is the third generation of her family to work here. Sergii works in a liquid nuclear waste disposal plant (pictured)

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    Legacy of disater: Pictured are Tania Bokova and husband Sergii Bokov. Tania is an administrator taking charge of decommissioning Chernobyl, and is the third generation of her family to work here. Sergii works in a liquid nuclear waste disposal plant (pictured)

    Morbid curiosity: While hundreds of thousands were forced to flee after the plant went into meltdown, the tragedy has attracted some people to the area. Tourists take pictures of the bleak landscape on the edge of the exclusion zone

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    Morbid curiosity: While hundreds of thousands were forced to flee after the plant went into meltdown, the tragedy has attracted some people to the area. Tourists take pictures of the bleak landscape on the edge of the exclusion zone

    While the power plant has lain dormant for decades, thousands of people still work there, helping to decommission the ruin, and manage the exclusion zone. Around 3,000 live inside the exclusion zone for up to 14 days at a time carrying out their dangerous work, while another 3,800 live on the borders of the exclusion zone and commute in.

    They inhabit towns such as Slavutich, Ukraine, located just over 40 miles away from Chernobyl, which was built to house 25,000 former exclusion zone residents. Each day three ‘elektrichka’ trains ferry workers to the site, via Belarus, and then back again, having passed through radiation detectors.

    Other workers live in Ivankiv, the closest inhabited city to the exclusion zone, Sukachi village, located just over 25 miles from the old nuclear plant, and Novo Ladizhichi, meaning ‘New Ladizhichi’, named after the abandoned town it was built to replace.

    Desperate: While the exclusion zone is largely empty, around 400 mostly elderly people are thought to have resettled there. Viktor Gaidak worked at Chernobyl for 28 years before the meltdown, and was forced to sell all his belongings to pay for treatment for colon cancer. Now his wife also has cancer, but no way to pay for treatment

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    Desperate: While the exclusion zone is largely empty, around 400 mostly elderly people are thought to have resettled there. Viktor Gaidak worked at Chernobyl for 28 years before the meltdown, and was forced to sell all his belongings to pay for treatment for colon cancer. Now his wife also has cancer, but no way to pay for treatment

     

    Tragic: Vasily Olessandrovich (left) displays a tattoo of his wife he got after she died of cancer, aged 48. He says he spends most of his days drunk, and wishes he was also dead. Igor Pashinsky (right) eats berries grown inside the exclusion zone, where rates of cancer are high

    Unknown: A couple are seen on the streets of Ivankiv, a heavily irradiated town on the edge of the exclusion zone. Nobody quite knows what effect exposure to radiation for this long has, so the residents get by on rumour, experience and superstition

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    Unknown: A couple are seen on the streets of Ivankiv, a heavily irradiated town on the edge of the exclusion zone. Nobody quite knows what effect exposure to radiation for this long has, so the residents get by on rumour, experience and superstition

    Getting by: A convience store is built into an old trailer in Sukachi village, which is now home to thousands displaced during the nuclear disaster, where employees are seen restocking the shelves

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    Getting by: A convience store is built into an old trailer in Sukachi village, which is now home to thousands displaced during the nuclear disaster, where employees are seen restocking the shelves

    Inside Chernobyl: Rare footage of ruins left by nuclear disaster

    Despite living outside the exclusion zone, these workers are still exposed to radiation levels 30 to 40 times higher than the typical background radiation. No studies have ever been conducted into the effects of long term radiation exposure, so nobody knows quite what this is doing to them. Higher instances of cancer and other diseases have been reported, but the villagers themselves get by on hearsay, rumour, and speculation.

    While the exclusion zone itself is largely deserted, there are thought to be around 400 mostly elderly farmers who resettled in their old homes following the disaster, reluctant to leave after so many years spent in familiar surroundings. They scrape out desperate lives, subsisting off of the meagre pensions the government provides for being Chernobyl survivors.

    Cancer rates are high, and alcoholism is rife. Viktor Gaidak, who worked at the Chernobyl plant for 28 years, was forced to sell virtually everything he owned in order to pay for treatment for colon cancer. Now his wife Lydia has also developed a tumour, but the couple have nothing left to sell to pay for her treatment.

    Meltdown: On the 26 April, 1986, the nuclear power plant at Chernobyl was destroyed after the Fourth Block reactor exploded during a safety test. Pictured here is a set of dials inside the old plant

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    Meltdown: On the 26 April, 1986, the nuclear power plant at Chernobyl was destroyed after the Fourth Block reactor exploded during a safety test. Pictured here is a set of dials inside the old plant

    Another day in the office: Vachislav Danilov, a medical researcher working at Chernobyl, is seen in the changing rooms at the plant. He lives in nearby Slavutich with his son Ilya, one of his eight children

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    Another day in the office: Vachislav Danilov, a medical researcher working at Chernobyl, is seen in the changing rooms at the plant. He lives in nearby Slavutich with his son Ilya, one of his eight children

    Cleaning up: Some workers at Chernobyl live inside the exclusion zone for up to 14 days at a time. Here, a janitor mops the entrance hall to the old plant, next to the radiation detectors that workers pass through each evening on their way home

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    Cleaning up: Some workers at Chernobyl live inside the exclusion zone for up to 14 days at a time. Here, a janitor mops the entrance hall to the old plant, next to the radiation detectors that workers pass through each evening on their way home

    Amazing archive footage shows Chernobyl transformation at its best

     

    Vasily Olessandrovich got a tattoo of his wife, Natasha, after she died of cancer on her 46th birthday. He is a farmer, but by his own admission spends most of his days drunk now, trying to forget the pain he feels. ‘I was born here and I'll die here. I already want to die,’ he says.

    'Forgive me, I'm drunk. I drink a lot now. We only have what God gives us, our health, our place, our friends.'

    Grown accustomed to the fear of radiation, Chernobylites today have new fears. They worry about their future. Keeping their jobs. Opportunities for their children. Maintaining their hometowns  

    Forgotten: For most Ukrainians the area around Chernobyl is a black spot on the map. But for those who lived in Chernobyl and nearby Pripyat before the disaster, it is still a place of work and a place to call home (pictured, a rusting bus inside the exclusion zone)

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    Forgotten: For most Ukrainians the area around Chernobyl is a black spot on the map. But for those who lived in Chernobyl and nearby Pripyat before the disaster, it is still a place of work and a place to call home (pictured, a rusting bus inside the exclusion zone)

    Daily commute: Despite being exposed to dangerously high levels of radiation on a daily basis, life continues in the areas around Chernobyl. Here commuters in the town of Slavutich make their way home

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    Daily commute: Despite being exposed to dangerously high levels of radiation on a daily basis, life continues in the areas around Chernobyl. Here commuters in the town of Slavutich make their way home

    On the edge: People refill their cars at an Energiya Plus petrol station on the outskirts of Ivankiv, the closet inhabited city to the exclusion zone

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    On the edge: People refill their cars at an Energiya Plus petrol station on the outskirts of Ivankiv, the closet inhabited city to the exclusion zone

    Different way of life: Not all of those who stayed work at the power plant. Here workers at a clothes factory in Slavutich, 40 miles from Chernobyl, are pictured taking a break

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    Different way of life: Not all of those who stayed work at the power plant. Here workers at a clothes factory in Slavutich, 40 miles from Chernobyl, are pictured taking a break

    But while most people fled the zone following the disaster, it has drawn in a morbidly-curious crowd of tourists, who come equipped with face masks and long-lens cameras to take pictures of the desolate and abandoned landscape. 

    As with so many things at Chernobyl, nobody quite knows how long it will be until the area is safe, however because of a particularly long-lived radioactive element that was used here, some scientists estimate that it could be 20,000 years before the area becomes habitable again. 

    Until then life continues in this remote and lonely spot, struggling along as best it can amid the ruins of the worst nuclear disaster in history. 

    A new life: While some people decided to stay around Chernobyl, others were forced to leave. Here orphans driven from Ukraine by the disaster are given donated clothes at a sanctuary in Poland

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    A new life: While some people decided to stay around Chernobyl, others were forced to leave. Here orphans driven from Ukraine by the disaster are given donated clothes at a sanctuary in Poland

    Escape: More refugees who fled Chernobyl after the power plant exploded settled in Borodyanka, 60 miles away. Here Lesya Kostenko (left, in red), leads a dance rehearsal with 14-year-old students Ira Dovstenka (centre, in white), and Olya Shvitka (right, in black)

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    Escape: More refugees who fled Chernobyl after the power plant exploded settled in Borodyanka, 60 miles away. Here Lesya Kostenko (left, in red), leads a dance rehearsal with 14-year-old students Ira Dovstenka (centre, in white), and Olya Shvitka (right, in black)

    Opportunities: Children wait back stage at a theatre in Slavutych, just outside the exclusion zone, for a recital of a performance they first put on in Kiev. With the fear of radiation subsiding, those living around Chernobyl are becoming concerned for their future, and that of the young

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    Opportunities: Children wait back stage at a theatre in Slavutych, just outside the exclusion zone, for a recital of a performance they first put on in Kiev. With the fear of radiation subsiding, those living around Chernobyl are becoming concerned for their future, and that of the young

     

    Keeping spirits up: The citizens of Sukachi celebrate during their annual 'Day of Sukachi' in the village hall (left), while Momotyuk Nazarii leads a service in the church in Novo Ladizhichi (right). The walls are decorated with posters, because they cannot afford paintings